Timor-Leste is the world’s newest nation. In this week’s destination story, Vernon Prieto explores this 44th largest island which is considered a haven for adventure-seekers. Above, the Palacio do Governo.
Since my business allows me to travel all over the Indonesian archipelago, I decided to visit the world’s newest nation – Timor Leste. After referring to my ever-ready map of Indonesia, I was surprised to find out that the crocodile-shaped island of Timor was in fact a fairly large island. The island which has a surface area of 28,418 square kilometers, is divided in two distinct parts: West Timor, part of the Indonesian province of East Nusa Tenggara, and where evidence of Dutch colonization can still be found, and the eastern side, the independent Democratic Republic of Timor-Leste, predominately influenced by the Portuguese. It is ranked the 44th largest island in the world, a little smaller than Canada’s Vancouver Island, and slightly larger than Sicily in Italy.
One of many isolated beaches in Timor-Leste.
Still can’t imagine how large the island of Timor is? Here’s another comparison: Indonesia’s most exotic island, Bali, is only 5,416 square kilometers. Let’s get closer to home: the island of Negros is ranked number 62 at 13,074 square kilometers: Samar at 63 is 12,849 square kilometers, number 64 is Palawan at 12,189 square kilometers; and Panay is ranked number 65 at 12,011 square kilometers. Timor-Leste comprises the island’s eastern half including the islands of Atauro and Jaco, and the Oecussi-Ambeno, an enclave on the northwestern side of the island, within Indonesian West Timor. The whole country’s area is 14,609 square kilometers.
Headline News
Timor-Leste has been headline news since its short-lived independence from Portugal in 1975, its annexation by Indonesia that very same year, and recently, its joining the roster of independent world nations in 2002. The country has a long and proud history. The abundance of its natural resources, like sandalwood, honey and wax, attracted Chinese and Malay traders in the 13th century. These peoples intermarried with the locals which gave birth to the island’s ethnic vibrancy. The Portuguese arrived in Timor on what is now the enclave of Oecussi around 1512. They made huge profits from exports of sandalwood but eventually overexploited this resource. In 1815 they introduced coffee plantations, along with sugar cane and cotton. The Portuguese and the Dutch fought for sovereignty over the island for many years until the Portuguese ceded the island of Flores to the Dutch to keep the island’s western half. In 1915, the two colonial powers signed the Arbitrary Sentence which established the borders that still divide the island today.
Patung Kristus Raja dominates the hilltop at Cape Fatucama.
The people of Timor-Leste consist of a number of distinct ethnic groups, most of whom are of mixed Malayo-Polynesian and Melanesian/Papuan descent. There are over 20 main languages and dialects spoken by roughly one million people in the country. Tetum is the language spoken by the majority of the people, and together with Portuguese, is the country’s official language. It is not surprising that Bahasa Indonesia is spoken by a large number of the population since the country was under Indonesian dominion for almost 26 years. Over 90 percent of the people adhere to the Catholic faith, the balance being Protestants, Muslims, Buddhists, and Hindus. Animist rituals and traditions coexist peacefully with the different faiths, contributing to the Timorese people’s rich cultural palette. Most of the Timorese people work in agriculture. World-famous Timor coffee is a major export, along with the energy resources from the Timor Sea. An emerging tourism industry is also seen as a potential source of revenue.
Dili’s Palacio do Governo, offices of the Prime Minister and Parliament
Interesting Adventure
I wondered what I would see and experience when I visited this mysterious country. Mysterious only because I had never met anyone who ever visited Timor-Leste or anyone who could tell me anything more than what I read in the newspapers or heard in the news. This was going to be one interesting adventure. I arrived after lunch in the Presidente Nicolau Lobato International Airport in Dili, the country’s capital city. I was greeted by the ever-smiling Manolito “Lito” Napoleao of Eco Discovery. Lito is a wealth of information about Timor-Leste having grown up in the country. After spending many years in Australia during the Indonesian era, Lito decided to return to his homeland to assist with nation-building in his own way. His way is to let the world know that Timor-Leste is the new place to visit, a paradise for those seeking an unspoiled country getting back on its own two feet.
“Pura Girinatha” Hindu Temple in the hills above Dili
The first order of the day was to get me to the Hotel Esplanada located in the most exclusive sea-side boulevard in town. The hotel is flanked on both sides by rows of white villas formerly owned by the Portuguese colonizers and now occupied by the various embassies and United Nations offices in Dili. A few meters away from the hotel is downtown Dili, the country’s commercial & administrative center. The fascinating city along the bay is undergoing a full-scale renovation. Bombed out and burnt edifices from the war for independence are being torn down and rebuilt while heritage buildings from the Portuguese era like the Palacio do Governador and the old fort are being restored to their former glory.
Dili’s light house
Farther down the road is the city’s famous Areia Branca (White Beach) with the massive Statue of Jesus Christ dominating the hilltop at Cape Fatucama. I was so impressed with the Portuguese for building such an imposing statue of Jesus until I found out that the statue and the Cathedral of Dili were built by the Indonesian government under Soeharto. Tsk, tsk, tsk, Portuguese!
Western Border Tour
The following day’s itinerary was the Western Border Tour. It was a very nice drive along the north coast to the border with Indonesia’s West Timor. The varied landscapes included cool mountains, vast plains, a salt lake with pelicans, lush jungles, coconut forests, rice paddies, and imposing cliffs over stretches of pristine beaches. Here and there were remnants from the Portuguese era like old forts, an old jail, and the Parish Churches in the different towns we passed. Also very noticeable were the many school buildings built by the Indonesians and the countless number of goats crossing the road in every place. The goats were masters of the road!
The newly restored Presidential Palace. Behind it is the old hospital where volunteer doctors and nurses from Cuba are stationed to assist Timor-Leste’s nation-building efforts.
Near the border with Indonesia is the town of Balibo where a 400 year-old fort dominates the hilltop. From here the Portuguese could spot the Dutch and other intruding forces trying to land in East Timor. The town is a must visit for Australian tourists as it is the site of the massacre of five Australian journalists known as the Balibo Five. Balibo is also the home town of Turismo Timor-Leste’s Deputy Director, Mr. Aquilino Caeiro who made my wonderful visit to his country possible. Before returning to Dili I made several purchases in a number of road-side handicraft shops. The best buy in Timor-Leste is the beautiful Tais cloth which is very similar to our very own ikat. Other interesting souvenirs are wood carvings, pottery and baskets.
Seaside Parish Church
Haven for Adventure Seekers
My second and last night in Dili was at the country’s premier residence, the Hotel Timor. It is located smack in the center of town across the waterfront. Its famous Portuguese restaurant is the place to enjoy a truly continental meal. Food in Timor-Leste varies from local Timorese fare to Portuguese, Italian, Chinese, and even Japanese cuisine.
“Mercado Municipal Dili” Dili’s Old Public Market undergoing renovation
I wished I could have stayed a few days longer to see more of the country. Like I mentioned earlier, I was not aware of how large the country was that I only made time for two nights. A whole week is needed to fully appreciate the country’s uniqueness. Timor-Leste is a haven for adventurers. The country boasts of the best waters for diving and snorkeling as well as whale and dolphin watching. Mountaineering and trekking are popular tourist activities and bird watching is fast becoming a sought after leisure interest due to the profusion of rare and beautiful birdlife in the island. Relaxing driving tours along the many interesting coastal and inland areas of the country are the best way to appreciate the beauty, culture, traditions, and history of the country and its people.
Salt –Produce of the North Coast villages
Timor-Leste is the place where you can discover a new country undergoing growing pains and learning how to fend for itself in these very challenging times.
Dili’s Old Fort built in 1627
Woman making handicrafts
Portuguese Wine, Olive Oil, sardines and other products are available at Garrafeira
Portuguesa in Dili.
How to get there:
Merpati Nasuntara Airlines flies 4 times weekly from Bali, Indonesia. The Western Border through Batugadé is an alternative for those travelling from West Timor, with a connection by bus between Kupang and Dili.
Important Information:
Currency: US Dollar Visas: Available at the Presidente Nicolau Lobato International Airport in Dili for periods of 30 days at USD30 per person. Owners of Portuguese passport are entitled to a free visa for 90 days. Departure Tax is USD10 per person.
Electricity: 220V
Climate: The climate in the island is hot and humid. The wet season is from November to May, and the dry season is from June to October. May to July is the best time of the year to visit Timor-Leste.
Banks: The country has 3 banks (the Australian ANZ, the Portuguese CGD-BNU and the Indonesian Mandiri) as well as Western Union offices.
For more information contact:
Eco Discovery
Ms. Maria Noronha
inquiries@ecodiscovery-easttimor.com, www.ecodiscovery-eattimor.com
Turismo Timor-Leste
www.turismotimorleste.com
Hotel Esplanada
www.hotelesplanada.com
Hotel Timor
www.hotel-timor.com
Acknowledgements: The author would like to thank:
Mr. Aquilino Caeiro
Ms. Maria Noronha
Mr. Lito Napoleao
Turismo Timor
|
