Issue Date:
 February 4 - February 10, 2007
   
 

Travel

 

Destination: Goa, India
Goa, India for Beginners

Text and Photos by Vernon B. Prieto

Goa’s second industry is Mining.   Minerals and ores mined in the state are loaded on ships for transport to other parts of India and the rest of the world.

Goa is India’s smallest state, yet it handles 12 percent of all foreign tourist arrivals in India . The reasons tourists, foreign and domestic alike, flock to Goa are as varied as Goa itself. The state is blessed with natural scenic beauty, miles and miles of white sandy beaches, paddy fields and groves of coconut, mango and cashew, picturesque rural villages, de­lectable cuisine, striking temples, colo­nial churches, forts and monuments, and tourist-friendly, hospitable people. It is a haven for heritage enthusiasts, culinary aficionados, nature trippers, Catholic pilgrims, and any traveler bent on expe­riencing “a different kind of India .”

The magnificent gilded main altar in the Basilica of Bom Jesus

The distinct Goan culture, a blend of East and West, is also what attracts for­eign tourists to Goa’s shores. The fact that the locals have had many, many years of contact with foreigners, and that approxi­mately 35 percent of the state’s popula­tion is Roman Catholic, draws Europeans to Goa in increasing numbers. These very attributes, as well as Goa’s prosperous economy and its harmonious mix of Ca­tholicism, Hinduism, and Islam, earned the state the moniker “India for Begin­ners.”

The churches and convents of Velha Goa (Old Goa) are included in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites

Cruising to Goa
Most visitors get to Goa by coach from Mumbai in neighboring Maharashtra state and other major tourist hubs in India, or land in Goa’s Dabolim Airport from Ban­galore, Delhi, Mumbai, Pune, Chennai, and Kochi, and Kuwait and Sharjah in the Middle East. Others travel by rail on the Konkan Railway.

Locals and foreign tourists enjoy all the activities in Calangute Beach including parasailing

I decided to sail to Goa on the Su­perStar Libra from Mumbai.   It was, as usual, a very wonderful cruise on Asia’s leading Cruise Line – Star Cruises.

As the ship approached port, at noon­time, one could not miss the magnitude of the state’s second largest industry- mining. Minerals and ores such as iron, bauxite, manganese, clays, limestone, and silica were being loaded into many, many ships flying just as many flags.

Since there was so much to see in very limited time, we were immediately transported by coach to Velha Goa (Old Goa). Velha Goa was founded in the 15th century as a port for the Vijavana­gara monarchs and Bahmani Sultans of Galburga. Eventually, the area came under the control of the Adil Shahs of Bijapur who made Velha Goa their aux­iliary capital.

Detail of Hindu Temple featuring the Hindu Deity Ganesha.
Goan society is a mix of Hindu, Catholic and Muslim cultures

Portuguese India
In 1498 Vasco da Gama visited Old Goa from Kerala. The intention was to set up a colony to take control of the spice trade from competing European powers after established land routes to India were closed by the Ottoman Turks. Later, in 1510, Portuguese admiral Afonso de Albuquerque defeated the ruling Bija­pur kings leading to the establishment of a permanent settlement in Velha Goa.

Star Cruises dancers from Brazil and acrobats from China share center-stage in the ship’s professional nightly shows

At its peak, Old Goa was as large as Paris or London and was called the “Rome of the East”. Malaria and cholera epidem­ics wreaked havoc on the city and it was practically abandoned by 1775, and in 1835 the city was virtually deserted. In 1843 the capital of Portuguese India was moved to Panjim.

World Heritage Site
In 1986, the churches and convents of Velha Goa, the former capital of the Portu­guese Indies were included in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites. Of particular importance is the Basilica of Bom Jesus which contains the tomb of St. Francis Xavier. These monuments, according to UNESCO, were influential in spreading forms of Manueline, Mannerist and Ba­roque art in all the countries of Asia where missions were established.

Goan woman peddling refreshments and treats to pilgrims
and other tourists outside Se’ Cathedral

Our first stop was the Basilica of Bom Jesus, a monument typical of the classic forms introduced by the Society of Je­sus. The incorruptible relics of St. Fran­cis Xavier are enshrined in this beautiful Church. We were able to purchase several religious souvenirs in the Basilica’s well-stocked gift shop.

Across the Basilica is Se’Cathedral. It was built in 1562 and is the largest among Goa’s churches. The Cathedral is dedi­cated to St.Catherine of Alexandria, the patroness of Velha Goa.

Calangute Beach
We then continued on to Goa’s most popular beach. Calangute Beach was full of people from every corner of India and the world. There were beach chairs, tow­els, umbrellas, and sun-worshipping bod­ies occupying almost every square foot of sand on the beach. The foreigners were wearing their skimpy bathing costumes while the locals were wrapped in saris and long sleeved shirts and trousers. It was a very amusing sight.

Tourists flock to the many shops selling Goa’s famous cashews, a must-buy pasalubong

After some shopping in Goa’s version of a Philippine “tiangge” which lined the road leading to the beach, we settled for a scrumptious “merienda” of local “bibing­ka”, guava cheese, and great coffee. Be­fore returning to the pier we made a short stop in Panjim to purchase two of Goa’s must buys – cashews and feni. Feni is Goa’s most popular alcoholic beverage. It is made from fermented cashews or coco­nut and is not recommended for the timid. It is almost pure alcohol, guaranteed to grow hair on anyone’s chest.

More time is definitely needed to re­ally appreciate all that Goa can offer. Just remember, Goa has two main tourist sea­sons: winter and summer. In the winter, tourists from Europe and elsewhere come to Goa to enjoy the splendid climate. In the summertime, which is the rainy sea­son, tourists from across India spend their holidays in Goa. The rainy season is when everything in Goa is very affordable for the budget-conscious traveler.

Star Cruises ferries to Goa twice weekly from Mumbai.
For information contact Star Cruises at (02) 521-5660

What to see In Goa

Aguada Fort
The fortress of Aguada, erected in 1612 encircles the entire penin­sula at the southwest extremity of the Bardez Taluka of north Goa. This fort was built to protect the northern shores of the Mandovi estuary from Dutch and Maratha raiders. It had 79 cannon guns stra­tegically placed that could be fired in all directions. A 19th century built lighthouse is situated inside the for­tress.

Viceroy’s Arch
The main road in front of the Church of St. Cajetan leads to the river Mandovi through an archway known as the Viceroy’s Arch. It was built by Francisco da Gama, the great grandson of Vasco da Gama between 1597 and 1600 to com­memorate the centenary of Vasco da Gama’s discovery of the sea route to India. It is at this main gate that the outgoing Viceroy officially handed over the baton of the city to the incoming Viceroy.

Bhagwan Mahaveer Sanctuary

With an area of 240 sq. kms, this sanctuary is Goa ‘s largest wildlife preserve. It is 53 kms away from the state capital Panaji, with ever­green forests and deciduous trees encompassing this preserve. In the heart of the sanctuary is the Molem National Park . Herds of deer and gaurs (Indian bison), clusters of monkeys, Malayan giant squirrels, cobras and pythons are a com­mon sight. And if you get lucky, you might even spot elephants and ti­gers. The sanctuary is also home to a few black panthers.

Safa Masjid at Ponda

One important monument left behind in Goa by the Muslim rulers is the Safa Shahouri Masjid located at Ponda. This is the biggest and the oldest mosque in Goa . It is the only remaining one in Ponda Taluka among the 26 mosques that were built by Ibrahim Adil Shah of Bijapur in 1560.
Its greatness lies not in what is left of the one time prosperous reli­gious complex, but its ruins, which vividly recapitulate the past glory.

The incorruptible relic of the great Saint Francis Xavier is housed in a beautiful side chapel in the Basilica of Bom Jesus

 

 
 
     
 
 

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