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What's On & Expat - Philippines

Aug 5-11, 2007   
 

DINING

 

At Last... Taste-O-Vision
By Jacqueline L. Ong

We’ve all wished for it to happen one time or the other. But as always, frustration creeps in when those pan-roasted lamb chops swimming in its juicy goodness on TV becomes just that: pan-roasted lamb chops swimming in its juicy goodness on TV. And we can only stare so much at that savory pile of sizzling hot barbeque right off the grill. If at least someone could invent a taste-a-vision, or even just a smell-a-vision, watching cooking shows could be less of a self-torture.
If it’s any feat, one restaurant did just that. Bacolod Chicken Inasal, that 14-year old restaurant famed for its grilled skewered inasal (flavorful chicken pieces marinated in soy, vinegar, sugar and ‘secret’ spices) popularized from the Visayas, has come out with a real version of a TV dish. Partnering with a major broadcasting company, ABS-CBN, which is running a telenovela (TV novel) series entitled Ysabella, the chicken house has developed a recipe similar to that of the TV series’ main subject: a prized inherited chicken recipe that is bound to make the lead character Ysabella rises from the cudgels

 

of poverty. That is, once she gets it back from the unscrupulous chef who stole it.
Called Ysabella’s Chicken and is available since the program started in July and up until it ends in February next year, the innovative dish is made of locally-sourced chicken prepared with tabon-tabon (a dark brown fruit found only in the mountains of Mindanao), wild honey, dayap (local lime), bagoong balayan (mud-like fermented fish paste), tanglad (lemon grass), onions, tomatoes and garlic. The diverse mix of ingredients marries into an indescribable unique taste punctuated by the hints of spices used. It’s not grilled, as opposed to the best-seller inasal, rather it is steamed and lightly fried.
Rosa Meim, vice-president of the restaurant explains that in the TV series, the recipe is called Kinasal na Manok (married chicken), because “it is a marriage of different flavors from the bitter tabon-tabon, sweet honey, sour dayap, very salty bagoong balayaan and hints of tanginess from the tanglad.” And truly so, because in the TV series, the mother of Ysabella explains the nomenclature as: “just like in marriage, it is a sure mix of
 

 

Ysabella’s chicken at Bacolod Chicken Inasal jumps from the boob tube onto the dining table

bitterness, sweetness, sourness and a hint of surprise that individually makes the relationship a special and complete one.”
Now that’s a literal dining room drama! Fingers crossed, eyes shut, I’m wish

 

ng that all of my favorite dishes cooked on TV crosses over from the boxed tube onto my table. It doesn’t have to be as dramatic but a dash of mise-en-scene would make every spoonful a theatrical feast.

 

Recipe of the Week

Red Mullet Nicoise Style

Spiral Restaurant in Sofitel recently concluded the French Spring Festival with an elegant dinner showcasing the fine cuisine of France. In this week’s recipe of the week, we put our forks on this delicate fish dish from Nice punctuated with the contrasting flavors and textures of tomatoes, olives and anchovies.

Ingredients:
500 grams tomatoes
60 milliliters extra virgin olive oil
100 grams finely chopped onion
3 pieces crushed garlic cloves
8 pieces red mullets fillet (besugo in local parlance)
8 pieces anchovy fillets in oil
50 grams black olives
Salt and pepper

How-to:
      Peel the tomatoes by blanching it in boiling water and cooling it in ice water. Cut in half, squeeze out the seeds and chop the tomatoes. Season the fish fillets with salt and pepper. Heat half of the olive oil in a nonstick pan and sauté the chopped onions. Stir in the tomatoes and season again with salt and pepper. Let it cook over high heat for five minutes. Set aside.
      Heat the rest of the olive oil and cook the fish for four minutes on each side. Serve with the tomato sauce on top and farnished with the Anchovy fillets and olives.
 

 

King’s Breakfast at Dencio’s
By Joan Teotico

Undoubtedly, breakfast is the most important meal of the day. I remember back in third or fourth grade, my health teacher taught us three things: to eat like a king during breakfast, eat like a prince during lunch and eat like a pauper for dinner. Some sound advice, huh? I used to eat like a king (or should I say queen?) for all my meals including snacks, but not anymore. I also read that breakfast is actually “break the fast.” A vital meal not meant to be skipped, it fuels our brain so we will be able to think, walk, talk and carry on with our daily activities.
Dencio’s, a Filipino restaurant known for its best-tasting Filipino specialties recently launched Gising Na! (Wake-up) Breakfast Meals. Hearty choices include Beef Adobo Flakes (fried flakes of

Dencio’s, home of delicious Filipino food, now offers hearty breakfast meals

 

marinated meat seasoned with garlic, soy sauce, vinegar and spices), Beef Tapa Tips (soy-cured meat), Daing na Bangus (fried marinated milkfish), Lucban Longganisa and Vigan Longganisa. These pork sausages are made in Lucban, Quezon Province and Vigan, Ilocos Sur respectively.
All breakfast meals are served with a generous and flavorful mound of garlic rice, atchara (pickled papaya) and two sunny-side up eggs except for Daing na Bangus, which has only one egg. As is usual, condiments are mainstays in Filipino dining. So after taking my order, a waiter served small bowls of calamansi (Philippine lime) and siling labuyo (small hot pepper) which may be mixed with vinegar, toyo (soy sauce) and patis (fish sauce).
I was served the Beef Tapa Tips. It was quite tough and it could have been better if it was softer and easier to chew but that’s just my opinion. Also, one serving is actually good for two. I wasn’t able to finish my meal since there is so much viand and rice. Next time I am at Dencio’s, I’ll definitely share this breakfast fit for a king! For those with big appetites and eat like kings for breakfast, the new meals of Dencio’s will surely satisfy.
Gising Na! Breakfast Meals are available in ten outlets of Dencio’s: Capitol Hills, Scout Albano; Makati—Jupiter, Paseo Center, Rockwell; Pasig—Metrowalk, Eastwood; Pasay—CCP Complex; San Juan—Greenhills.

 
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