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Like a phoenix, the former American rest and recreation facility of Camp John Hay in the chilly hilltop city of Baguio in northern Luzon has risen out of the ashes of a devastating earthquake in 1990 and the withdrawal of the United States Air Force in 1991.
It has now metamorphosed into a top destination for vacationers with its 5001 yard par 69 golf course designed by Jack Nicklaus, picnic grounds, eco-trails, and other leisure and tourist facilities. But the brightest jewel in the Camp’s cap is undoubtedly the Manor. The four-storey structure, designed to stand in harmony amidst its setting of towering pine trees and views of the majestic Cordillera mountain range, offers five-star service and world-class amenities.
Its rich interiors of warm wood evoke the feel of Baguio at its most welcoming best. Above everything, what the Manor offers that really gets people to brave a trek up the zigzags road to get to Camp John Hay are the gastronomic delights at its premier dining outlet Le Chef. The “baby” of talented and charismatic superchef Billy King, Le Chef at the Manor has arisen as a de rigeur gourmand’s destination.
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Fine Food High
By C. Jude Defensor
Le Chef at the Manor overlooks lush gardens
The force and flair behind Manila fine dining institution Le Souffle, Chef Billy started cooking as a young boy in Ireland and proceeded to hone his craft in various top-drawer kitchens around the world. He then came to the Philippine where his heart found its home. “I think I’m more Pinoy than most Pinoys,” Billy reflects. “It’s fantastic being in the Philippines.
This country has been so good to me. It has given me everything I have. And that’s happiness.” He unabashedly gushes about the friendships and opportunities he has found here and to his fellow expats he counsels: “Get to know as many Pinoys as possible. They’re fun. They love to party, sing and dance. And most importantly they love to eat.
Chef Billy relates how his friends, Manor bigwigs Tito Avenceña and Heiner Muelbecker, approached him to take over as their head food and beverage man. He loved the idea, since it gave him the opportunity to get away from the exhausting hustle and bustle and intense competition in Manila.
The way Chef Billy operates is he relies on several key people who he trusts. He prefers to hire people who need a break, either jobless or novices. He runs his kitchen like a school. There is always 20 percent more staff than necessary, all undergoing constant training.
To keep things fresh and innovative, Chef Billy believes in always mixing things up, never sticking to a regular dish or menu, or any fixed specialties. And despite his deep foundation in classical French cooking and huge respect for his profession, Mr. King still displays quite the rebellious streak. “I can’t follow rules. I break every rule in the book,” he admits.
But there’s one thing that Chef Billy never screws around with, and that’s the importance of good food. “Food is what I love. You can call it an obsession in a way,” he states passionately. “I hate to see food wasted and people that don’t care about food. When I get a complaint it breaks my heart and stays with me for days. It really hurts. I can only apologize and hope I’m given a second chance. But most have given me a second chance.”
With the orgasmically delicious dishes Mr. King seems to consistently dream up with ease, one can’t help but keep coming back to his cooking, not just twice, but multiple times. Who can resist the chance to check out his latest yummy concoction? “We’re always upgrading and changing, adapting our menu according to the seasons,” he explains.
Being in Baguio allows him to be even more adventurous and ambitious. “There’s plenty of everything in the market. We create specialties from what we have here. I challenge my staff to do something different, come up with ideas and put something together. It’s good for them and for me. I can’t stand doing the same thing everyday.”
Chef Billy and Manor General Manager Heiner Muelbecker’s next venture is the soon-to-open Manor Suites, a lavishly appointed structure rising beside the current Manor.
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Chef Billy King
Like a boy with a new toy, Billy enthusiastically talks about their plans for their re-imagining of the legendary 19th Tee diner which all aficionados of the old pre-quake Baguio remember with fondness and profoundly miss with an intense nostalgia. The Manor team has been hard at work on a 19th Tee for the new breed of Baguio-lovers.
The kitchen is being built and menu being developed according to Chef Billy’s exacting and inventive specifications. “The menu will be very versatile,” he reveals. “I’m a great believer that not only adults, but also children should be given the option to eat healthy food.
I’ve been working on a way to do affordable, healthy, quality fast food for a long time.” He does reassure us though that innovations aside, the diner will still feature the good old original American-era favorites nostalgia-hounds are sure to crave, like hamburgers, chilli dogs, and ice cream.
And soda fountain buffs are sure to appreciate one detail where the new Tee will definitely improve on the old, Chef Billy reveals that they’ll be churning up their very own homemade ice cream. Cool Baguio weather and homemade ice cream, what more of an excuse does one need to move up to the Manor this summer?
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Story-Dining with
Hans Christian Andersen |
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Café Mediterranean spices up Boracay shores |
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There are things in life that one never really outgrows. A story well told over a good meal is one of them. Noontime and evenings from April 26 to May 10, 2007, InterContinental Manila’s Gambrinus bar will serve a hearty Danish buffet spread prepared by the creative and imaginative Pernille Harboe, a long-time Manila resident from Denmark.
While enjoying her culinary gems at dinner, guests will be entertained with interpretative readings of Danish writer, Hans Christian Andersen’s well-loved fairy tales by veteran stage actor and voice talent, Amiel Mendoza. Andersen’s classic tales are The Little Mermaid, Thumbelina, The Ugly Duckling, The Emperor’s New Clothes, The Wild Swans, The Nightingale, and The Princess and the Pea.
Some of Andersen’s favorite dishes that were part of his actual 70th birthday menu will be re-created by Harboe. These are Turkey Consomme with Wild Mushrooms, Salmon au Gratin with Green Asparagus and Bay Shrimps, Roasted Duckling Prince of Copenhagen, Sweetbread in a crispy crust with Green Peas, bacon and Watercress and Almond Cake with Nougat Vanilla Ice Cream, to cite a few from the buffet line-up.
She will also prepare traditional Danish specialties like Red Cabbage, Frickadeller (Danish-style meatballs), Deep-fried Oysters and her take on some of Andersen’s famous stories like The Mermaid’s Delight (Salmon Mousse) and The Ugly Duckling (Chocolate Parfait in a Cup with Almond Cake).
Of the famous author, Harboe says, “More than a writer of fairy tales, he is perhaps the best observer of the human spirit. His fairy tales appeal to children as much as to adults because they all give us a picture of ourselves, our fears, our greatest dreams and our strengths. There is little of us in every Hans Christian fairy tale.” For reservations, call (02) 815-9711. |
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With a string of six successful branches in Manila: Greenbelt 1, Rockwell, Alabang, The Podium, Robinson’s Galleria, the Mall of Asia and a branch soon to open in Davao, Café Med opens an eighth restaurant in Boracay, delivering the distinct taste of the sunny Med to the country’s most popular destination island.
The essence of the cuisine, the secret, according to co-owner and resident chef, Dixie Mabanta, is not only in the sauces, but in the passionate enjoyment of life, captured with every sensual bite, every glorious sip of wine, and the restaurant conviviality of a table shared by good friends.
Considered by its loyal patrons as the home of kebabs, gyros and falafels, Café Med’s famed offerings take on a fresh tropical burst specially designed to capture the romance of the flavors of the sun.
Adhering to “very strict” standards, co-owner Marla Tanada promises the same excellent service standards for which they are renowned, while merging a casual yet refined dining experience catering to the discriminate and adventurous gastronome.
The invigoratingly air-conditioned interiors (a welcome rarity in the summer heat of Boracay), infused with earthy Moroccan elements, is a cozy and intimate combination of beach casualness and wood. It has a light, unpretentious, unplanned approach. Guests with an interest in beach house shabby chic will enjoy the understated style.
Café Mediterranean is located in Station 1, streetside. For reservations, please call (63 36) 288-6770.
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