The rugged green hills of Batanes frame the charming traditional
architecture of an Ivatan village. (photo courtesy of Bettina Go)
THE BATANES ARE, FOR NOT MUCH LONGER I’M SURE, IN a magnificent time-warp. No McDonalds or Jollibees, no air-conditioned shopping malls, no security guards, no Starbucks, no traffic fumes, no
EDSA, no slums, no “deposit firearms” signs, no beggars, no homeless people... I could go on. What they have got though—and in spades—are lush green hills, crystal clear seas, quiet roads, stunning scenery, quaint villages, magnificent walks, well tended and very productive fields and an outstanding community spirit. They also have smiling, gentle people with children who are so pleased to see visitors that they take your hand and in true Filipino fashion, raise it to their foreheads. All this plus lots and lots of wonderful freshly caught seafood—flying fish, dorado, lobster, coconut crabs and much, much more.
Our group of 12 consisted of one elderly gentleman in a wheelchair; some intrepid hikers; others who couldn’t wait to sample the local food, ensuring we had a good variety of eating places and the rest who just loved exploring and learning as much about the history, the region and the people as possible. We used jeepneys, tricycles and pick-up trucks for transport, and on one occasion hired motorbikes for the brave among us. We visited the smaller island of Sabtang by boat—a treat not to be missed—but unfortunately didn’t have time to go to Batanes’ third inhabited island—Itbayat—for this you should budget at least 6 days (including arrival and departure).
OK, so, Batanes may be “unsophisticated” and the weather can be unpredictable, but the simplicity is so appealing. It’s very much a ‘no rush’ place, to be savored and enjoyed in first, not fifth, gear. We stayed at the Batanes Resort, it was basic but very clean, the staff was very helpful and the location was superb. While not wishing to deny the Ivatans their progress, and with it the internet cafes, Starbucks, et al, we were just grateful to have been able to experience their hospitality and way of life as it is now. By writing this, we’re obviously helping to encourage the very tourism that may increase their wealth and with it their development, but as long as it’s handled carefully, that could be for the good.[Unfortunately, as some studies have shown, the contrary may also occur.]
THE JOURNEY BEGINS
Taking a winding jeepney ride along narrow, curving and sometimes steep roads
Day 1. We left Manila VERY early in the morning, and after a brief stop-over in Laoag, we landed in Basco. Following breakfast we set off on a tour south of Basco. After imbibing the views along the zigzag road of Chawa, our first town stop was in Mahatao, where we took photos of traditional Ivatan houses, the San Carlos Borromeo Church (b.1873), and boat building. Next was Ivana. We
got off the jeepney and strolled around, soaking in the warmth and beau-
ty of Ivana and its folks.
Meandering down one of the streets we were approached by children who had stopped playing and came towards us. What a wonderful and refreshing surprise it was when they greeted us with “mano po” (a sign of respect where they take your hand and bring it to their forehead; mano is tagalog for hand and po is a term of respect) then went back to playing.
Local boy takes a plunge into the sea
Next were the towns of Uyugan, Itbud, and Imnaju, with a photo stop at the ruins of Song-Song—a town abandoned by its residents (a handful have returned) after a strong typhoon destroyed most of the houses. From Imnaju we ventured off through “Marlboro Country—a scenic bumpy road that
takes you through Batan Island’s cattle pasture to the fishing village of Diura where we saw dorado (dolphin fish, no relation to dolphins other than being a sea dweller) being dried, and dipped our hand in to a spring purported to be a “fountain of youth.”
Our knowledgeable guide, Jack, informed us that the fishermen of Batanes, will not sell any dorado during the fishing season—they believe the sea spirits will be angered and will cut their catch short so there will not be enough dorado to dry to last through the season when seas are rough, typhoons are common and when there is little or no fishing (June–Jan). True enough, we did not sample any dorado in our entire 5 days in the Batanes.
From Diura we crossed the island and headed back to Basco. Sunset drinks and dinner was at Shanedel’s in town, where we had our first (and definitely not last) taste of flying fish.
MORE TO SEE
DAY 2. Bright and early the next day we took a jeepney to Ivana and caught the ferry—a falowa (motorized boat)—to Sabtang. Though we had a smooth trip both ways, the crossing can be rough. We landed in San Vicente Ferrer and headed to Savidug.
In Savidug we poked into “the smallest school” in the province, which has only three students, and a teacher! Very uncommon for most of the country. No wonder people in the Coconut crab Batanes seem better educated, and had a better command of English, than in other places. On the way to the town of Chavayan we saw an idjang. Prior to Spanish times, the people repaired to these forts and threw boulders down on invaders. In Chavayan, the group separated; most went on a hike over the hills to Sumnanga.
A farmer with his carabao
From Sumnanga we headed back to San Vicente. Lunch was on a white-sand beach before Sabtang’s main town. We were treated to pretty views, fresh juice straight out of coconuts, flying fish (this time in a delicious stew), and our first taste of coconut crab—sweet and juicy—we left wanting more.
The scenery all along the coastal road of Sabtang is even more breathtaking than Batan island’s. Not to mention heart-stopping: much of the route’s fabulous scenery included looking down from the narrow, curving, and sometimes very steep road, at the sheer limestone cliffs that plummet into azure waters.
Coconut crab
Back in Ivana, we stopped in at the Honesty Coffee Shop, right by the pier. Here, you take what you want and leave your payment in a box. Prices are written on the items and/or on a sheet of paper found at the counter. If you need change, you have to come back when the owner is around. Try running something like that in Manila (or most other places on this planet)! Sunset dinner that night was at the Batanes Resort, their staff were pleased to announce they had fresh lobster available (we had inquired about it the day before); the feast was enjoyed by all.
DIVERSITY TIL THE END
Day 3. Three members of the group set off to climb Mt. Iraya (est. 1,008m). The rest had a more laidback day—touring in and around Basco. First was Radar Tukon (an old weather station that sits atop a hill—tukon is Ivatan for hill), where we had wonderful 360° views. From there we went to Naidi Hills, on the other side of Basco, for more views, a look at 3 old stone houses that were used as a communications base during WWII.
A scenic view of Mt. Iraya
We were unable to venture through a nearby “Japanese tunnel” as we did not have proper equipment so we opted to try the other “Japanese tunnels” near Vajangshin that were easily accessible.
The mountain climbers had returned, nice and muddy, from Mt. Iraya. The trail was steep and nearly disappeared into the overgrowth. The first part of the trail ascended through mixed forest and farmland, then continued into lovely rainforest. Eventually, the rainforest became mixed with pandan and rhododendron. Nearing the top, the trail became even steeper. At the top, they were in the clouds—no view but an opportunity to rest in cushiony undergrowth in a lovely misty setting.
Day 4. Two members of our group went with Philip (who works for the LTO, is a farmer and a fisherman, and guides on the weekends: philcar@eudora.com) to climb Mt Matarem (est. under 500m). The rest of us rented scooters and headed off to find the boat-shaped burial grounds of
Chadpidan, at the foothills of Mt Ivana. The pretty views of the surroundings and across the channel to Itbayat make it a serene resting place.
A charming village with stone houses (photo courtesy of Bettina Go)
Having had our fill of flying fish, coconut crab, and lobster, we decided to have what we thought was to be our last real meal on the island at Casa Napoli, the island’s Italian restaurant. The owner was a seaman on an Italian vessel where he learned to make Italian dishes from the ship’s Italian cook. The meal of pasta and pizza was wonderful, simple yet flavorful, and like all meals on the island, inexpensive.
Day 5. We arrived at the airport and were informed that the flight (scheduled to depart around 8:30am) was delayed (til 4pm) due to battery problems. Had we foresight to know that the plane would be this late, we could have chartered a plane and gone to Itbayat and back. Oh well, next time, we said….
How To Get There:
Batanes is located in the northernmost tip of the Philippines. Several domestic airlines fly to Batanes. From Manila, it is a two-hour flight to Basco, the capital city.
|
